At the James Beard Awards, immigrant rights take center stage over food
By
Lilah Raptopoulos
Summary
The article covers the 2023 James Beard Awards in Chicago, where the ceremony transcended its usual focus on food to become a platform for political and social advocacy. Multiple winners used their acceptance speeches to champion immigrant rights, highlighting the critical role immigrants play in America's restaurant industry. The piece captures the atmosphere of the event, including encounters with attendees like Diane Leeds in her fruit-themed headpiece, and underscores how the awards became a stage for broader cultural and political statements about immigration and labor in the food world.
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Key quotes
· 3 pulledWell, I always wear something on my head. And these chefs care where their food comes from. So I told my milliner: fruit!
This year, the Oscars of the food world wasn't really about food
Winner after winner stood up for the immigrants who keep America's restaurants running
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